RV sewer hose works in sub-freezing conditions

By Chris Dougherty
Certified RV Technician

RVing in winter has its challenges as well as rewards. One major challenge is trying to keep liquids liquid, whether that be fresh water or waste.

Having been a fulltimer in the Northeast for ten years, I became an expert at making RVs handle the frigid winters. I went through many sewer hoses, breaking them all. I wish I had this one from Camco back then.

Most RV sewer hoses are designed for warm weather use only. Once the temperature falls below freezing, the plastics crack and the hose is done. In addition, most hoses use spring steel to form the ridges, which under occasional warm weather use may work fine, but once the use becomes more constant or extreme, the hoses will experience failure.

Camco has designed a hose, the Rhino Xtreme, that it claims will survive to -44 degrees F, and won't crush, rust or crack. The hose is also abrasion resistant, and can even be driven over and return to its original shape. It can do this because of its triple-TPE vinyl layering, and its polyolefin wire core, which won't dent or rust, always returning to its original shape.

The hose kit comes complete with a 15 foot long hose with pre-attached Rhino swivel connectors with four bayonet tabs instead of the usual two for more sound connections, a translucent elbow, reusable locking rings, storage caps and a universal campground sewer adapter. The set retails for $59.99. In addition, a plain hose without fittings is available for $42.99, and a 5 foot extension is $29.99.

It is important to note that no sewer hose, or rigid pipe for that matter, will prevent freezing and freeze related damage. Use this hose only while dumping, black water followed by grey water for a rinse out, and make sure no liquid remains in the hose when you're done.

Have you used this hose during the winter? Do you have another product you're using for wintertime RVing that other RVers should know about? Please let us know by leaving a comment.

Toilet of the future. Oh my goodness! Only $6,000!

This toilet of the future is not available in RV models. We don't think so. But now that the word is out about how great a toilet can be it may be coming to your favorite luxury rig any day. This toilet knows when you enter the room and opens to greet you, it has a heated toilet seat, a built in stereo, and it even acts differently for boys than girls. And if your feet are a little chilly, no problem -- the toilet will direct warm air right at your tootsies for soothing warmth! Pretty neat, eh? And the toilet only costs $6,000. So go ahead -- get yourself one!

Product Spotlight: OP Products-Pure Power Blue

By Gary Bunzer,
The RV Doctor

The trials and tribulations of RV waste management and odor control have long been a topic of interest on the RV Doctor Website. And typically I try to leave you with a workable solution, rather than just highlight the problem and walk away.

For many years I've extolled the benefits of RM Tank Care, one of the very first enzyme-based, bacteria-infused waste digesters to enter the RV marketplace. And one that truly worked! But alas, some good things are bound to come to an end. And so it is with RM Tank Care. The parent company recently removed RV Tank Care from the market in order to focus on their other products. So the search was on for a replacement product to help RVers everywhere deal with odor control and the breakup of solid, black holding tank waste.

As readers of the RV Doctor Column and website are aware, there are now many such products out there regarding odor control and confusion abounds about how effective they may or may not be. So recently, the good folks at Drainmaster, introduced me to another product, Pure Power Blue, as produced by OP Products. My initial research encouraged me to dig a little deeper.

As part of my due diligence, I typically rely on a close cadre of individuals including RV educators, authors, Master Certified RV service technicians, engineers and others to help direct my personal recommendations. For this product evaluation I called on one of my FOGs (Friends of Gary), author and RV service technician, Chris Dougherty to help with some experimentation.

Since the “Go Green” movement permeated the RV Industry, it's been proven that the use of certain chemicals, including formaldehyde, a common preservative found in RV toilet chemicals, is hazardous to the environment, humans and pets. Just about every company that manufactures these additives now produces a green alternative. OP Products may be the exception since they've only produced "green" additives, avoiding any use of chemicals, from day one. Perfecting upon their development of Pure Power Green, they are now offering what they consider to be the most powerful, easiest to use and most economical RV holding tank additive yet developed, Pure Power Blue, Waste Digester and Odor Eliminator. Pure Power Blue is four times as concentrated as any near competition.

Featuring their proprietary “BioBlast Plus” technology, this new product uses bacteria and enzymes to break down waste naturally and safely. The company states that their biodegradable product will “control odor immediately, even in high heat conditions over 120°F.” In addition, the bacteria and enzymes in their product enhance the sewage and septic systems to which they’re introduced.

Pure Power Blue is available as a liquid in sizes ranging from 4 to 128 ounces. It is also available in convenient, dissolving, single-use pouches, in 6 or 12-pouch packages. The company states that a mere 2 ounces or 1 bio-pouch will treat a 40-gallon tank (an additional dose is recommended for temperatures above 105°F). When it comes to a bacteria-based holding tank treatment solution, a normal question might be: is it safe? According to OP Products, “The bacteria used in [their] products are non-pathogenic, friendly Bacillus bacteria. These types of bacteria are cultivated from natural sources, therefore they are perfectly safe to use in any cleaning or maintenance situation.”

The Pure Power Blue liquid is a lighter color than some of the traditional products and has a pleasant smell when opened. Simply add 2 ounces of Pure Power Blue to a gallon of water and that’s it. The same for the bio-pouch; one gallon or just enough water to cover the bottom of the tank.

One claim the company makes is that it will break down any 2-ply household toilet tissue, meaning there's no need to use RV-specific, quick-dissolve paper, which of course, is more expensive than store brands. So Chris set out to test that claim. Here's his report:

The Experiment: I used two clean glass jars, one with plain tap water and the other with a tap water/Pure Power Blue mixture (about ½ ounce of additive in the jar of water). I then added four sheets of store brand, (generic), 2-ply toilet tissue to each jar.

The Results: In a one hour test, the toilet paper in the plain tap water remained as it was when I inserted it. When stirred, it held together perfectly, without deforming or separating at all. However, in the Pure Power Blue solution, the paper had dissolved almost completely, and upon stirring, was nicely broken down and completely shredded. Clearly, complete dissolving would have occurred within a short time, perhaps another hour or two, but even at this point in time, flushing of holding tanks would have been easy and complete.

In a practical use test over three days in July, I found quite remarkable results. I added a single bio-pouch to the black water tank with a few gallons of water. The system was used by two people during that time and outside temperatures were around 80°F. Upon dumping the tanks, the black tank, which is always dumped and rinsed first, did so with little or no evidence of solids. Nor was there any odor that would normally accompany this process; it was absolutely absent. Upon dumping the grey water from the kitchen, however, where no additive was used, a perceptible odor was noticed. In my many years of RVing experience, this was the first time this phenomenon occurred. It will be interesting to see if this scenario holds up with longer use and more people are using the RV.

There are a couple of things to ponder about most typical bio-agents used for RV odor control. First, if you’ve recently used a formaldehyde-based product, you'll typically need to flush the tanks numerous times to help eliminate the residual formaldehyde which may kill the bacteria. Also, doubled dosages are required during the first few uses until all the old chemical is completely removed. Second, there are some products, like toilet cleansers, sanitizers, sanitizing hand soap, etc., that should not be used in conjunction with typical tank additives. Basically, anything that kills bacteria will render most products inert. Not so with Pure Power Blue. Because of its highly concentrated formula, such cleaning agents will not destroy the live bacteria. Remember, it's four times as potent as any other product on the market!

Test Conclusion: Pure Power Blue Waste Digester and Odor Eliminator is a great addition to the RVing lifestyle, making holding tank duties easier and more pleasant, plus it's good for the environment and RV park septic systems as well. 

Pure Power Blue is available at many RV stores as well as at Amazon.com.

Top of the line RV sewer hose does the job well

Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor explains the attributes of the Polychute RV sewer hose.

How to dump and thoroughly clean your RV's black water tank

The RV Geeks demonstrate how to dump RV waste water holding tanks and thoroughly clean the black tank. Keeping your sewage tank super clean requires following a few simple procedures which will make it stay odor-free.

Many RVers think their black tank is clean when they just empty it and flush out the sewer hose with water from the grey tank. Even those RVers who use a black tank flush system often don't utilize the most important piece of equipment necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the black tank: a clear sewer elbow.

Most RVers use chemicals, other additive to their RV holding tranks

In the Nov. 19, 2011 issue of the RVtravel.com newsletter, we asked readers if they used chemicals in their RV holding tanks. Here are their responses after two days. You can read the up-to-the minute tally here. But the percentages will likely not change from these early results. As you can see, most RVers do use some sort of chemicals, although many use "biodegradable solutions." Many of those who left comments who do NOT use additives to their RVs reported they dump often and so have no need for them.

Sleek new portable toilet from Thetford hits the market

Thetford Corporation, which introduced the original Porta Potti in 1968, has debuted the new Porta Potti Curve, which may be a good option for RVers with small RVs that do not have a designated built-in toilet. The Curve features a user-friendly, battery-powered flush to complement its sleek home-like design. A raised seat height and increased bowl size create a more comfortable and relaxed sitting position. Controls are hidden to keep them in safe, working order and maintain a smooth appearance.

An integrated toilet paper holder ensures the ultimate in convenience. Fresh and waste water tanks can be easily monitored with a simple check of the easy-to-read level indicators. The Curve also features an improved water tank carryinghandle for easy transportation.

In addition to the brand new Curve, Thetford's entire Porta Potti offering has been revamped. The line now features a refreshed, modern appearance with a cleaner cover and seat design. A more ergonomic carrying handle simplifies transportation and a now standard lid latch prevents any accidental spillage. All models also offer a redesigned valve handle, fill cap and pump.

Using your RV toilet during a winter trip.

By Chris Dougherty
I have been, and continue to be a firm believer in winter RVing. There are many wintertime activities and adventures that can be made more enjoyable by using an RV.

Some people prefer not to use the plumbing system during the winter for fear of doing something wrong and having a freeze-up, and subsequent damage. Others prefer to just use the toilet, and depend on campgrounds for their other needs. It is possible to use your RV toilet for brief periods in freezing weather, and here follows a few thoughts on how to go about it.

Winter capable RV

Purchasing a four-season RV, or modifying one to handle sub-freezing weather is one possibility. I have done this previously with good success. This requires a coach with completely enclosed and heated holding tanks. I prefer to add individual tank heaters, and a separate heater for the utility compartment. I have also added digital freeze alarms to those areas to make sure that the temperature doesn't dip too low in vulnerable areas. Work off the holding tanks only, and dump when necessary. Don't stay connected to outside utilities.

Non-winter capable RV

No-water option

It may be possible to use the RV toilet without the use of water, but extreme care must be taken to prevent freezing and damage. If any of you readers out there have done this, or something similar, I'd love to hear about it (email me at mgy41512 (at) yahoo.com). I have not done this, but have spoken to folks who have.

The process involves using potable RV antifreeze instead of water to flush the toilet. Starting with a completely empty black water tank, add at least 3-4 gallons of RV antifreeze to the black tank, and continue to use the RV antifreeze to flush the toilet as necessary. When you're done using the system, dump as usual, the there should be no freezing problem.

Warmer climate water option

For you snow birds out there, using the coach water system from the cold temperatures to the warm and vice-versa is an option, but I wouldn't recommend doing so unless you're certain that your enclosed tanks are protected well enough for the climate you'll be traveling in. An option is to use the system as pointed out above, keeping the heat in the coach on, using minimal water, and making sure there's adequate antifreeze in the holding tanks. Many folks will start using the system in the Mid-Atlantic region, for instance, headed South, and will re-winterize there on the way back.

Which ever you decide to do, make certain that the toilet is well winterized when you are done. Small amounts of water can remain in the flush valve on some toilet models, which can freeze and crack the valve if not completely removed or replaced with antifreeze.

Enjoy your winter RVing!

Don't let it freeze!

RVing in winter can be a fun adventure if done properly, but failure to properly winterize can be costly. Our friends at Keystone RV have produced this video about winterizing an RV, and some pointers should you wish to complete this task yourself.

Flushing holding tanks

Flushing the black holding tank is important to remove excess solids from the inside of the tank, and to help keep the tank level sensors clean and operational. The easiest way to do this is by installing holding tank rinsers.

How to keep toilet paper from unraveling while your RV moves

RVtravel.com contributor Adrienne Kristine explains an old RVer trick that keeps toilet paper from unraveling as the RV rolls down the road. This is so simple you might say, "Why didn't I think of this?" But maybe you already did. Click the video to play.

Avoid yucky problems with this RV sewer dumping technique

When you have full hookups, leave both the black and gray water valves closed. This allows solids and tissues to start breaking down and liquefying so they will flow better.

When your black tank is about half full, empty it followed by a good flush from your gray tank. The gray water will thoroughly clean out your dump hose.

When you leave the valves open you are likely to have bad odors, create a build-up just below your toilet discharge valve, accumulated waste will collect in your dump hose causing even more odors, and un-flushed matter will collect on the bottom of your holding tank and harden becoming almost impossible to clean out.

Use a board or commercial product (like the Slinky shown in the photo) to lay your hose on that will maintain a slant between your hose outlet and the dump station to create a better gravity flow and no low spots where waste will collect.

Help needed: "How do I fix my plugged black water tank?

A question to the RV Doctor, Gary Bunzer

Dear RV Doc,
Our black tank in the RV is plugged up by the toilet. We bought one of those Flush Kings and back-washed the tank several times. We took a snake and ran it as far as it would go from the toilet side and still it did not drain. The snake seemed to just coil up. Is there something else we could try? --Randall Peters

Dear Randall,
The subject of those dreaded holding tank blockages surfaces from time to time. It's further compounded when the holding tank is not positioned directly under the toilet.

The optimum set-up finds the toilet drainpipe going straight down and into the holding tank without the use of elbows. Unfortunately some manufacturers, because of the floor plan design, are forced to use elbows to connect the toilet to the black water holding tank, which I'm guessing is the situation on your coach. Additionally, toilet tank blockages often occur when tank valves are left in the open position while in the campground allowing all the liquid to drain out leaving the solids behind to dry out and stick in the drain piping or coagulate at the tank outlet.

Always keep the tank termination valves fully closed until each tank is above 3/4 full before evacuating. In most cases, an almost full tank will provide enough force to completely drain all the solids along with the liquids. This, of course, is assuming the slope of the drain piping, including the sewer hose, is adequate and the tank vents are fully functioning. You might want to inspect your entire waste system design and look for deficiencies. For severe blockages, it may be necessary to use a powered snake down through the toilet; a simple, manual twist snake may not suffice.

ANOTHER OPTION is to disassemble the termination fittings on the outlet of the tank. The termination valve is bolted in place using four bolts. After all the liquid stops flowing, remove the bolts and the valve and see if you can gain access with a snake from that end. It may be messy and it certainly is undesirable, but a handy do-it-yourselfer can easily accomplish this task. Make a funnel out of a large plastic water jug -- you see them upside down on common water coolers. Cut off the neck including down about four inches of the widest circumference. Position the coach with the termination valve directly over a sewer dump site. Insert the new funnel into the sewer inlet and then take off the valve. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and long sleeves! This will allow you access at both ends of the system.

If you still cannot remove the blockage, perhaps it's time to contact All-Pro Water Flow (www.allprowaterflow.com). Their specialty is hydro-cleaning holding tanks and drain assemblies by using very high water pressure and a special nozzle that allows cleaning of the entire tank interior. I recommend this procedure at least once a year anyway to keep the tank probes clean and to eliminate false readings on the monitor panel. Back-flushing with typical city water pressure will not adequately clean or clear stubborn blockages.

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Where do you go, when you gotta go?

When we take on the RV lifestyle, we also put on some new "hats" for the roles we assume. What kind of hat does a "sanitary engineer" wear? I dunno, the only part of my uniform in that role is a pair of good, thick, rubber gloves.

Getting out the sewage becomes our "problem," and that can really BE a problem if we’re not sure of where to ‘get rid of the goods.’ When set up in an RV park, it’s not a problem, but on the road, or when boondocking, it gets a bit more complicated. Here are some possible places to dump your tanks:

Highway rest areas

State, National, and Federal Parks (often dump stations located outside of the campground, but where not, you may be "stuck" paying a small fee. Better than eating it.)

Local government sewage treatment plants (check out the phone book, call the main number and ask for the treatment plant)

Truck stops. We point in particular to those catering to RVers, like Flying J. The "J" has instituted what some RVers think is a dreadful arrangement: An electronically controlled dump station, meaning you pay to convince the electronics to let you dump. If you have a Flying J RV customer loyalty card, the price is $5 to dump, and $10 without. We've found some Love's Travel Stops have free RV dump stations--they're a little harder to find.

DON’T think you can sneak over beside the road and off-load your tanks. The "Midnight Dumper" only creates image problems for RVers, and if you get caught, there can be a really stinky fine associated with such behavior.

If finding dump stations is near and dear to your heart, then check out The RVers Guide to Dump Stations, a comprehensive guidebook to public dump stations across the US. Available from the RV Bookstore, follow this link for more information.

Happy dumping!

Choosing the right toilet: Thetford

Choosing the right toilet, whether replacing upgrading, is an important decision. This video, by Thetford Norcold, talks about their particular products, and the decision process for selecting the right toilet for you. Some of the information presented here is universal, and applicable to whatever brand of toilet you choose.

How to keep sewer odors from venting into the air conditioning system

Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor, answers a question during a recent live RVtravel.com webcast from an RVer who wonders how he can prevent the smell from his RV sewer vent from getting pulled into his air conditioner.

What's best? Special RV toilet paper or regular stuff from the supermarket?

By Chuck Woodbury
RVtravel.com

That's a question we posed to the readers of the RVtravel.com newsletter. Is it really worth it to pay a bundle for special paper from an RV dealer or RV accessories store? It'll cost you three times as much as a cheap brand at your favorite supermarket.

Well, more than 3,300 RVtravel.com readers responded, and nearly 60 percent reported they use "the regular brand from the supermarket." Most of the others said they purchased a "brand made specifically for RVs." Fifty-nine RVers clicked our third choice "I prefer to use a corn cob," but we're pretty sure they were kidding.

By the way, most RV experts agree that plain ol' one-ply white toilet paper is just as good as the high priced stuff made specifically for RVs.

Reader Pete Hilton left a comment on our survey, that pretty much sums up how to determine a suitable brand. He wrote: "We own and operate Mid GA RV Service, a Mobile RV Service business in Middle, Georgia. I get asked quite often about whether to use "RV toilet paper" or to use a name brand. I explain to customers to take a sheet and place it in your hand. Run water on it and see if it basically falls apart in your fingertips. If you try this and it passes the test, it usually will be approved for septic use and this should be ok for use in your RV."

If you would like to read the survey, you can do so here.