Don't let leaky RV toilet problems ruin your road trip

One of the RVing lifestyle's greatest annoyances is toilet trouble. We depend on these humble appliances for so much, and since there's only one on board the average RV, when it has problems, everybody suffers.

Perhaps the most common complaint (aside from unwanted smells) is a leaking RV toilet. Drips from the terlit aren't only an annoyance; they can also lead to serious damage if not cured. But in the middle of an RV trip, who wants to shut down the entire household water supply and spend a few good hours crawling around on the floor, sticking your nose where no nose was really ever intended to go?

Having suffered RV toilet troubles too many times over the years, we decided enough was enough. Household plumbing designers automatically put in a trouble-stopper in every American bathroom for decades: It's the common shutoff valve, tied into every toilet water line around the country. Why can't RV designers give us the same break? Got a dripping RV toilet on the road? Simply reach down, turn off the stop-cock and eliminate the drip. Turn the valve on when you need to flush, take a few drips yes, but then shut the thing off until you can get to a place of repair.

Putting in a shut-off valve is a simple, inexpensive process. Most RVs are currently plumbed with that infamous grey or off-white tubing called PEX. It's easy to work with. You might consider copying our approach.

First, shut off the water pump and disconnect "city water." Locate the water supply line on your toilet and follow it down a few inches. For us, this meant cutting off a piece of PEX that came out of a stub wall behind the toilet. From there we simply added a "twist lock" style elbow fitting. The kind we used was from Lasco. To use it, you simply cut tubing square, twist the collar on the fitting to "unlock" the fitting, slip the tubing into the fitting, and shove the tubing in until it stops, then twist the collar the opposite direction to lock the tube into the coupler. No special tools, no leaks, no fuss. We used an elbow that allowed tubing in, with a male pipe thread on the other side.

With the new elbow in place we simply attached a short flexible plumbing supply line to male pipe thread, and from there, we attached a "straight stop" poly plumbing valve. On the other side, a flexible toilet supply line led to the toilet inlet.

Now if something goes wrong with the toilet, we simply reach down and shut the stop valve. It's a little more trouble, but it beats the daylights out of ruining a road trip by either having no water available anywhere in the rig, or taking the time and effort to fix the problem.

Mystery toilet splashes

If the Hardy Boys ever went RVing, perhaps one of their books would've been entitled, "The Mystery of the Splashing Toilet." We've noted with interest that several RVers have reported that on arriving after a day of travel, they've found puddles or splashes on their bathroom floor. Sure enough, they associate it with water splashing out of their commodes.

For those who've never experienced such a syndrome, and who aren't armchair detectives, you might simply pass it off as a flight of RVer fancy. How could the little bit of water left over in the terlit bowl ever jump out of there and onto the floor? But if you're the poor sap who gets to mop up the floor at the end of the day, it's more than a bit annoying.

So what could cause this odd splashing? Obviously, the first question is, "How much water are they leaving in the bowl?" The answer to the question is typically, "Just enough to cover the bowl valve." Which is right, after all, if you don't keep some water in the bowl, you know what will make its not-so-stealthy way back up into the bathroom – holding tank stink!

What kind of roads are you traveling? East-coasting RVers say they've seen potholes big enough to swallow small cars. Hit one of those, and your false teeth are apt to wind up in Cincinnati, never mind a bit of toilet water in the bathroom.

What kind of toilet rim do you have? We never would have thought to ask. But, as die-hard "plastic throne" owners, we've always had a big rim around the inside of our toilet bowl. But it seems those in the high-class China bowl crowd may actually have a "rimless" toilet, which could, theoretically, encourage the displacement of toilet water when jumping mud puddles with the motorhome.

So what's to be done to ensure toilet room swabbing is eliminated from your setup-camp routines? Getting the water out of the bowl yourself is one way. Turn off the water pump, step on the bowl evacuation pedal, and empty the bowl completely. Then come back again in a few minutes and check again – some RV toilets are sneaky and will fill up when you have your back turned. It's suspected by some that when the Olympia Brewery went out of business a few years ago that the resident "Artesians" took up dwelling in passing RVs.

Of course, no water in the bowl equals phantom odors, right? Not necessarily. When Borge Madsen invented the plastic zipper back before 1951, he probably never would have dreamed that his invention could reduce marital strife. Why? Because if you fill a small ziplock bag with water, zip it shut, and drop it down over the toilet bow valve, you'll keep those nasty-spirited Artesians at bay, thus saving a great deal of proboscis problems.

If we get a good answer as to why toilets splash out when traveling, we'll be sure to share it with you. 

You can use your winterized RV toilet -- here's how

The Knowles Gallery on flickr.com

Just because you winterized your RV doesn't mean you can't use it. Plenty of RVers get the sudden "hitch itch" in the middle of a cold winter, and to escape 'cabin fever' head out on the road with the RV to see how things look when Jack Frost is running the show. But just how, some wonder, can you use the biffy? Hang on pard'ner, there's no need to cross your legs in discomfort until you hit a rest area!

Really, the biggest problem for RV plumbing in cold weather is when there's water in the water lines. A bit of liquid in the holding tanks isn't generally a problem. So while you might not want to put water in your fresh tank and use your water pump, you can still use the toilet. But then there's that rather delicate issue – how on earth can you keep your RV bathroom from stinking to high heaven if you can't flush the toilet?

Ah, here's where winter alternative thinking comes in. While it's a bit more costly than using water, savvy winter RVers know they can flush their RV toilets – and keep things from icing up in the 'down under' area of the black water holding tank – by using RV antifreeze to flush with. Yes sir, use 'the pink stuff' to clear those unwanted leftovers from the toilet bowl.

Here's a hint to help keep down costs. You don't necessarily have to grab a gallon jug of antifreeze and just 'glug, glug, glug' dump a bunch down the hatch. If your unwanted wastes drop out of sight when you step on the toilet evacuation pedal, then all that remains is probably a light coating of liquid in the bowl. If you fill up a plastic spray bottle with antifreeze, just hold the bowl flapper open and spray a generous jet or two of antifreeze around the bowl to eliminate any unwanted leftovers. This will keep your expenses down, and unwanted odors, too.

Some RVers have suggested it might be less expensive to use cheap windshield washer fluid. There's a bit of controversy over that offer – some say it works great, while others have complained that when they used the stuff, it damaged their dump valves. The counter-argument is, "If it doesn't damaged the rubber in your windshield washer system, why would it damage the rubber seals in your dump valves?" Your wise RV sages can only say, "Duh, we don't know." But we do know that the cost of a gallon of RV antifreeze isn't that much more expensive than windshield washer fluid, so why chance it?

So grab your antifreeze and your road maps, winter roads are calling!

Sewer Solution provides alternative to dumping your tank

In a previous RV "incarnation," our home base located our RV downhill from the nearest sewer dumping port. Towing the rig up to the port was out of the question. What was the answer? Along came a system called "Sewer Solution," a system that allows you to pump out your RV holding tank using only a couple of garden hoses. And best of all for us, it sent that unwanted effluent uphill.

Here's a video that shows how Sewer Solution works.

Holding tank odors invading? It may not be your black water system

After a long day behind the wheel, you're more than happy to pull to a stop, set the brakes, and ready to make camp. How about a cold drink before setting up? You whip open the trailer door and – the stench is enough to knock you over. What's the matter, did you forget the toilet deodorant? Just because there's a stink doesn't necessarily mean the blame falls on your biffy.

When your RV plumbing system smells, the black water system often gets the finger pointing. But there are other suspects that may need an interview. Sometimes that horrific odor comes from the gray water system. A bit of detective work can help you track down the stinker.

The toilet system is pretty straight-forward. You have only a few things to check out. First, put water in the toilet bowl and let it stand. After a while, check it. The water level should not have changed in the toilet bowl. If it's gone down, then you've got a leaky bowl seal or sealing mechanism that needs attention.

Absent a leaky bowl seal, the next possibility is the floor flange gasket. These little rubber guys form an air-tight seal (in principle anyway) between the base of the toilet and the floor. If that gasket is compromised, either by age or by the toilet flange bolts not being tight enough, then air-to-air transfer can waft a nasty odor into your rig. First check flange bolt tightness: Your toilet should be tight to the floor, not "wiggly."

Before condemning the flange seal or gasket, make sure the gray water system isn't passing gas and pointing the finger at the toilet. Here's where your sniffer will be pressed into service. When you enter your RV and detect the stink, be brave: Shut the door behind you and carefully walk around sniffing. Your objective is to find the highest level of stink.

structuretech1.com

The gray water system has several points where odor can migrate up into the coach. Sinks and shower drains should all be equipped with P-traps, that when filled with water, prevent the upward migration of odor. If the P-trap should dry up, the stink will easily encroach on the coach. If you're in hot weather and perhaps haven't used a sink or the shower in a while, the P-trap could be empty. Just pour a little water down the drain.

Another source of gray water stink is a defective air admittance valve. You'll often find these in the same cabinet as a sink; the device sits atop the drain system and opens to admit air when water runs down the drain, breaking any vacuum, and allowing water to run down the drain quickly. However, these valves are known to go whacky and stay "open" even when water isn't running down the drain, thereby allowing gray water odors to pass back up into the coach. If your nose detects stinkeroo under the sinkeroo, yank the offending valve loose and replace it – they're an inexpensive part available wherever plumbing supplies are sold.

If your RV is equipped with a washing machine (or is set up to accept one), you may find that where the machine drain hose attaches to the RV drain system that the P-trap you'd expect just isn't there. It's a weird world, but many RVers report that after they've had a washer professionally installed they've suffered stink issues, only to find the installers didn't put in a P-trap. We're not sure of the reasoning, but it's probably spelled P-R-O-F-I-T, but some outfits just don't put in a P-trap. And if the drain hose from the washer isn't then air-tight sealed to the gray water system, stink will follow.

Checked out the usual suspects and the stink remains? OK, pull the toilet up and replace the flange seal. If that still doesn't kill the odors, you may have a plumbing line in the rig that's not completely sealed. That's a tough one to track down, and may require a sensitive nose and persistence to track down.

Meantime, here's a few other ideas that can help: Use sink strainers, preferably wire mesh ones, to keep food particles from running down the drain. Try an enzyme or bacteria based holding tank treatment in the gray water system, and avoid bleach-containing dish detergents.

RV park owner mystified by inquiry letter, or so the story goes. . .

(Editor's note: Our reporter wrote this article with his tongue in cheek)

Even while most RVers have "all the comforts of home" with them in their rigs, including 'the biffy,' it's nice to know that the park of your choice is suitably equipped with all the amenities. This "letter" shows that sometimes, just asking about such things can lead to humorous misunderstandings.

An older lady, new to RVing, genteel of upbringing, was planning a vacation to Minnesota. In advance of their trip, she undertook to write to a prospective RV park to inquire about reservations. Concerned that the park have complete facilities available, she was at a bit of loss as to how exactly to write about – well – bathroom facilities. She couldn't bear to write such a vulgar word as, "toilet" in her letter, but finally, reached the conclusion the rather Victorian term, "bathroom commode," might suffice. But in writing those two big words, she found herself a bit aghast, it seemed so forward. Finally she settled on abbreviating the term.

One might only imagine the confusion that overtook the park manager, who on receipt of the letter, found his potential guest inquiring, "Does your RV park have its own BC?" Completely overthrown by the cryptic letters, the manager showed the letter to the rest of the staff and several guests, all of whom were equally mystified. Finally, like a lightening bolt, it hit him. "Does your RV park have its own Baptist Church?"

He quickly framed a response:

"Dear Madam:

"I very much regret the delay in answering your letter. But I do want you to know there is a BC about 20 miles distant north of the park. It's quite nice, and can seat 250 people at a time. While it is a bit of a drive, if you're in the habit of going regularly you'll be pleased to know that many take their lunches along and make a day of it. Folks who do this usually arrive early and stay late.

"You should know it is a beautiful facility and the acoustics are marvelous. Even normal delivery sounds are quite clearly heard. The last time my wife and I went was five years ago, and it was so crowded we had to stand the entire time. However, a fund raiser is planned to raise money for more seats; it will be held in the basement.

"I would like to add that it pains me not be able to go more regularly, but this is surely not for lack of desire. It just seems as the older we grow, it seems to take more of an effort, particularly in cold weather. However, if you decide to stay on in our park, perhaps I could go with you the first time you go, sit with you, and introduce you to others. Remember, ours is a friendly community."

Source: An old legend.

RV toilet sprayer alternatives.

Courtesy Camping World

RV toilets, by their design, at times don't flush quite as cleanly as we might hope. To that end, manufacturers often provide a spray nozzle feature to assist in cleaning the bowl. It's a Star Trek solution, not because of being high-tech in nature, but it does allow you to deal with Klingons. But what if your biffy doesn't come equipped with the spray nozzle, are you stuck with stickies? Not at all, you can often add your own spray nozzle.

Some toilet models allow the addition of an after-market spray nozzle kit. Do you flush a Dometic? There's an after-market kit for that. It includes a spray nozzle, a clip to hang the nozzle on, and installation kit that includes a vacuum breaker. The purpose of the latter device is to prevent any liquids from the spray nozzle assembly from making their way backwards an back into the RV water supply system. Camping World will sell you one for a little over $60, but by being smart and shopping around, you can beat this price.

Keep in mind, in addition to the issue of these critters being a bit on the pricey side, some RVers have complained that because the thing is plumbed through the toilet supply line, there can be a bit of a loss off pressure, making your cleaning efforts a bit more difficult.

There are alternative approaches to this matter. Some RVers report (and we personally have experienced) that their shower head will reach out from the shower stall and down to the throne with ease. They just use the shower head to blast away at any undesirable bowl dwellers. OK, this is a really cheap solution, but unless you can hang onto the shower head while holding it over the bowl, then stretch and reach the shower control valves to turn on the pressure, you're apt to get a few drips on the floor. You pays your money . . .

Other alternatives? Sure enough. Put a plumbing T in the water line that serves your toilet. Incoming water flows into the T, then one side out to the toilet, and the other to a hose line leading to: 1) A shower head (with appropriate shut off valve) 2) A toilet bowl rinse head, or 3) a garden spray nozzle. The latter seemed like overkill to us, but hey, it does develop quite a stream.

But what about a vacuum breaker? If you're clumsy and apt to drop your new toilet bowl blaster in the pot and leave it there, yeah, you might want to add the vacuum breaker. Otherwise, it would seem pretty unlikely that icky stuff could make its way back into your fresh water system.

How about a recirculating RV toilet?

An RVer moving into the world of "boondocking" away from the world of RV parks and utility sites was concerned about dumping black water. After another RVer showed him his recirculating toilet, the question arose: Wouldn't a recirculating toilet be just the thing for boondockers?

First, what's a recirculating toilet, and how does it work?

A recirculating toilet looks a lot like a common RV toilet, only it's not "moored" to the floor of the RV, being completely portable. Rather than dumping waste into a mounted holding tank, the system uses stored water and chemicals that dissolve the solid waste and then recirculate the wastes and water for multiple flushes. The wastes are contained in the toilet system, and when full, the unit is taken out of the RV and the contents dumped at an appropriate location.

You may have already experienced a recirculating toilet if you've taken a trip on a Greyhound bus or a flight on nearly any airline. Recirculating toilets are common on those conveyances.

So how about eliminating the worry about emptying holding tanks with the use of one of these "recirc" biffies? Several RVers who've used them report that while they do work, depending on your use level, these toilets have to be dumped every few days. So how often do you have to dump your RV black water holding tank? Will you be out in the boonies longer than your black water tank can wait for a dumping? True, it's easier to carry a recirc toilet out to the car or truck and drive it to a dump station than it is to hitch up a trailer, or maybe even break camp with a motorhome to head out to dump tanks.

But there are other considerations. First, the cost of a recirc toilet isn't something to take lightly. A popular recirculating toilet is manufactured by Thetford, the Electra Magic Model 80. Look to pay somewhere over $400 for the unit. The money layout doesn't stop there – you'll need to keep the thing "charged" with holding tank chemicals to kill the bacteria.

We've heard from RVers who've used recirc toilets, and the most common expression we hear are things like, "Yuck!" and "Stink." While the holding tank chemistry does supposedly kill the odor of the wastes, it tends to replace it with a lingering sort of fragrance that most people would prefer not to have hanging around their RV. Would you like to have your in-flight drinks served to you in the airplane bathroom?

If moving your RV away from your boondocking spot every couple of weeks to dump the holding tank isn't workable, consider a couple of alternatives: A "blue boy" portable waste tank to haul away the wastes, or a "porta potti" style portable toilet which uses fresh water and doesn't recirculate your waste products. The latter are a whole lot less expensive than recirc toilets, don't use near as much chemical, and from our own experience, smell a whole lot less offensive than visiting an airliner bathroom.

Stop that SeaLand seal leak

Many RVers have the popular SeaLand RV toilet stowed away in their bathroom. Sad to say, like other RV toilets, occasionally the SeaLand gets a bit cranky and begins to show some signs of age. A typically reported problem is the water in the bowl vanishing mysteriously, sometimes accompanied by an unwelcome blast of odor from the holding tank.

Often the problem is the rubber seal around the ball valve in the bottom of the bowl. Yes, you can cure the problem by taking the toilet apart and replacing the seal, but wait! You may be able to solve the problem with a less invasive procedure. At times a build up of minerals around the seal will no longer allow for a water (and stink) tight seal. A simple clearing away of those minerals may relieve you of the problem, and the hassle of a remove-and-replace job.

Here's what some creative RVers have done to clear up a seal problem.

Bowl cleaner trick: Some swear by pouring E-Z RV Bowl Cleaner (Valterra product V88229) in the bowl. Of course, if the bowl leaks excessively, it may take quite a few "pour it in, let it sit" cycles for you to make this one work.

Banish it with a brush: Get a small brush, like a toothbrush, and after opening the valve, do the "dental hyginist" trick around and around inside the seal. Minerals (and other not-so-foreign material) can sometimes get stuck in the seal. Obviously you'll want to reserve this toothbrush for the biffy, not your mouthy!

Shoot it! Nah, leave the gun in the gun safe, shoot it with silicone lube. DON'T use stuff that contains petroleum products, which includes the ever-popular Vaseline. Rubber and petroleum are pretty much incompatible in a sort of dog-eats-cat scenario. Yes, it might work for a while, and then your rubber seal may vamoose permanently.